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Australia 2004 - Week 2/1

Frankfurt-Adelaide

Claire-Birdsville

Birdsville-Mt. Isa

Mt. Isa-Longreach

Longreach-Quilpie

Quilpie - Cunnamulla

Cunnamulla-Menindee

Menindee-Mildura

Mildura - Adelaide

German version

Friday 17.9.   We decide to make up the time we lost yesterday. It is a 520 km trip from Clare to Marree. The weather ist mostly cloudy, and still cool. We drive along the western edge of the Flinders Ranges, a beautiful mountain range in northern South Australia. We spent a few days here in 2001, the region is worth a visit.

ruin north of Hawker, S.A.

The first stop is in Hawker, the main town in the Flinders. We go to a bank to cash some traveller cheques as we won’t come to a town of any size for a long time.

Next stop is in Lyndhurst, a tiny spot at the end of the bitumen, a few kms north of Leigh Creek. From here the Strzelecki Track goes to the north east to Innamincka.

Marree, S.A.

Lyndhurst has a fuel station, a pub, a public toilet, and not much more. We head straight to the north from Lyndhurst, it is 80 km to Marree, our destination today. The former railway town on the old Ghan railway line is one of my favourite outback towns.There’s so much to see and explore in that tiny village. From Marree you can go along the Oodnadatta Track to the Northern Territory (we did this in 2001), or along the Birdsville Tack into outback Queensland. That is what we are doing tomorrow.

Saturday 18.9. - Marree to Mungerannie Roadhouse - 200 km    Although we always get up early it takes some time til we get ready, but hey, that means being on holiday. At around 10am we start for the adventure Birdsville Track (BT). The track is a wide stony gravel road that leads thru mostly flat and dry land. Even if the land looks barren, there are huge cattle staions along the track. The only sights we get to see is an occasional homestead, and the ruins of abandoned places. The area doesn’t get much rain, but when it rains the area can become flooded. In drought times the station owner rely on the artesian bores that the government sank when the area was developed. We enjoy it to be here, the vastness and lonelyness are stunning, and the beauty is in the detail.

Lake Harry ruin (BT), S.A.           a formely date palm plantation, and camel trading post.

The Natterannie sandhills are part of the Tirari desert, they were notorious for early travellers. These days the hills are clay-capped and no problem if the track is dry

Crossing the Cooper - the mostly dry bed of Cooper Creek is 5km wide, and a bid rough and sandy, there’s a ferry when the creek is in flood

Dog fence, Birdsville Track, S.A.

When we start at the Mulka ruins to continue we hear a loud bang - we’ve got a flat tyre!!! It was exactly the tyre with the broken mud flap, and very obviously, this driver also scratched the tyre. Now it was no fun for Peter to change the tyre on the stony track in the hot sun. Yes, it is warm, and it becomes hotter the further north we drive.

The tyre is already changed, I didn’t dare to take a photo while Peter was beneath the car 

Tonight we stay in a cabin at the Mungerannie roadhouse. Cabins on campgrounds are very different, usually one room, a bathroom, and cooking facilities in a small hut. Mungerannie is the only stop with facilities along the Birdsville Track, and we also get a new tyre. The cabin is more than basic, just two beds and a small table. However, not far from the roadhouse is a wonderful oasis. A small area of wetlands, fed by an artesian bore.

Mungerannie roadhouse, BT S.A. - it’s a lonely place

spa area, Mungerannie roadhouse, BT S.A.

Sunday 19.9. - Mungerannie Roadhouse to Birdsville 309km    Another day on the Birdsville Track. The weather is sunny and very warm. The scenery changes every so often from deep red gibber plains to sandy plains. Occasionally, there are low sand hills, and dry creek crossings. The track becomes narrow in places, it is a bit bumpy, too. About 80kms south of Birdsville we cross the Moongara Channel, and there is water!!! What a difference water makes. The bushes look much greener, and there are many birds.

Moongara Channnel, BT

Birdsville Track near Pandie Pandie

South Australia / Queensland border

Soon after the border we arrive at Birdsville. The tiny town at the end of the track is in the middle of nowhere, but it has all facilities travellers need. We settle in for two nights in a comfortable cabin at the caravan park.

Birdsville clinic - one of the first bush hospitals founded by Rev. John Flynn.

Monday 20.9. Today is a “rest day” in Birdsville. In the morning the nice host of the caravan park comes to our cabin for a chat. He convinces me that I should go and see the nurse in the hospital to make sure that everything is okay with my arm. We throw some clothes into the washing machine, and go to the hospital. These small bush hospitals don’t have a doctor, they are run by well-trained nurses. Doctors usually come once, or twice a month for consultations. And in any case of emergency the Flying Doctors can be contacted.

I have a nice chat with the nurse, she gives me two very useful tips. She says I should take an Aspirine daily to prevent clots, and I should be careful that no flies crawl into the sling because I still have a scratch on the arm. I am thankful for that tip, I really don’t want that any flies leave their eggs in the wound. After the visit we stroll around town and take some photos.

Birdsville, Queensland

The famous Birdsville Pub

Birdsville cemetery

We spend the the late afternoon on the wonderful billabong just behind the caravan park. The billabong is a permanent waterhole in the dry bed of the Diamanatina river. Of course I get bitten by mozzies and other nasties which left some big bumps on my legs. And of course we enjoy the warm nights sitting in front of the cabin with a beer, or two.

next sequel Birdsville - Bedourie

Frankfurt-Adelaide

Claire-Birdsville

Birdsville-Mt. Isa

Mt. Isa-Longreach

Longreach-Quilpie

Quilpie - Cunnamulla

Cunnamulla-Menindee

Menindee-Mildura

Mildura - Adelaide

Copyright Rita 2007

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